Understanding the Differences Between AHAs and BHAs for Effective Exfoliation
- Tracy Bui
- Aug 28
- 3 min read
Exfoliation is an essential step in any skincare routine. It removes dead skin cells, unclogs pores, and promotes a brighter complexion. Among the many exfoliating agents available, two popular choices are Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs). Although both exfoliators share the same goal, they have unique properties and benefits tailored to different skin types and concerns. This guide explores the differences between AHAs and BHAs, helping you select the right exfoliant for your skin.
What Are AHAs?
AHAs are water-soluble acids derived from fruits and milk. They primarily work on the skin’s surface, making them suitable for individuals with dry or sun-damaged skin. AHAs dissolve the bonds holding dead skin cells together, leading to easier removal. This process reveals a smoother and more radiant complexion.
Some common AHAs include:
Glycolic Acid: Extracted from sugar cane, it is the most potent AHA. Studies show that it can provide improvements in skin texture for 70% of those with uneven skin tone.
Lactic Acid: Sourced from milk, it is gentler than glycolic acid, making it ideal for sensitive skin. It helps retain moisture, increasing skin hydration levels by up to 30%.
Citric Acid: Found in citrus fruits, this AHA brightens the skin and enhances texture. Research indicates it can reduce dark spots by as much as 40% when used consistently.
AHAs are particularly effective for issues like uneven skin tone, fine lines, and sun damage.

What Are BHAs?
On the other hand, BHAs are oil-soluble acids that penetrate deeper into the pores. This makes them especially effective for individuals with oily or acne-prone skin. BHAs exfoliate inside the pores, which reduces the likelihood of breakouts and blackheads.
The most common BHA is:
Salicylic Acid: This acid is known for its anti-inflammatory properties. It can penetrate oil-filled pores, making it particularly effective in treating acne. Research suggests that salicylic acid can reduce acne lesions by about 60% when used consistently over several weeks.
BHAs shine in addressing concerns related to clogged pores, acne, and excess oil production.

Key Differences Between AHAs and BHAs
Solubility
The main difference between AHAs and BHAs is their solubility. AHAs are water-soluble, making them effective for surface exfoliation. In contrast, BHAs are oil-soluble, allowing them to penetrate deeper into the skin and pores.
Skin Type Suitability
AHAs are best for dry, sun-damaged, or mature skin types. They help hydrate and improve skin texture. For example, studies show that regular use of AHAs can improve skin texture by 50% over three months. Conversely, BHAs are ideal for oily and acne-prone skin, targeting excess oil and preventing breakouts.
Exfoliation Depth
AHAs focus mainly on surface exfoliation, promoting a smoother and brighter appearance. However, BHAs provide both surface and deep pore exfoliation. A study indicated that users of salicylic acid reported up to 80% fewer breakouts when compared to a control group.
Sensitivity
While both AHAs and BHAs can potentially irritate the skin, AHAs are generally more irritating for sensitive skin types. BHAs, particularly salicylic acid, are often better tolerated by those with reactive skin, resulting in fewer side effects.
How to Incorporate AHAs and BHAs into Your Skincare Routine
Start Slow
If you are new to chemical exfoliants, start slowly. Begin with a low concentration of either AHA or BHA and gradually increase use. For instance, applying a 5% glycolic acid product twice a week and slowly increasing frequency can prevent irritation.
Patch Test
Always perform a patch test before introducing a new product to your routine. Apply a small amount to a discreet area of skin and wait 24 hours to check for any adverse reactions.
When using both AHAs and BHAs, layering them correctly is crucial. Typically, apply AHAs in the morning and BHAs in the evening. This is because AHAs can increase sun sensitivity, making sunscreen even more essential.
Follow with Sunscreen
Both AHAs and BHAs can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight. Always apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day to protect your skin from UV damage. A sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher is recommended for optimal protection.
Final Thoughts
Understanding the differences between AHAs and BHAs is vital for effective exfoliation and achieving your skincare goals. By choosing the right exfoliant based on your skin type and concerns, you can enhance your skincare routine. Whether you decide on the surface-level benefits of AHAs or the deep-cleansing properties of BHAs, incorporating these acids into your regimen can lead to significant improvements in your skin's health and overall appearance.

Happy exfoliating with Snack.co!


